RE: Fantastic Fan - how many?
Just got through installing three new Fan-Tastic's in our 1978 model, 28 ft Airstream, as I'm proceeding with a remodel.
The install is very easy, once you get the old vents and gunk off the roof. Airstream runs wiring along the roof right next to the vent's so it was not problem to power the units...
I put one thermostat model in the bedroom, one regular fan over the galley, and one regular fan in the forward end over the gaucho. We also have a round 6 inch powered vent in the rear bath to handle the 'vapors'...
Fan-Tastic's are great for drawing in circulating air from any window that's opened up a bit...just can't beat them, and the Mfg. is one of the greatest RV accessories suppliers around...if you have problems they will fix it without question, or send you a new one!
RE: Poll – Have You Fallen Off of Your Scissor Steps?
I didn't want to temp fate...I made this portable 'railing' to help a bit to keep our balance. It's perfect for grabbing going up and down...the difference it makes is unbelievable!
It fits into a larger SS pipe, and I put a quick release pin in the bottom to keep the 'rail' from twisting.
http://img125.imageshack.us/img125/5227/img6413xd6.jpg
http://img49.imageshack.us/img49/3281/img6412zc4.jpg
http://img125.imageshack.us/img125/6149/img6414xx1.jpg
RE: First timer questions
I picked up a cordless impact wrench from my local auto parts store...I think it's a Goodyear brand, and it's 24 volts. It comes with several sockets for popular wheel lugs in a sturdy plastic case, and one on the sockets fits the stabilizer jacks on our 78 Airstream.
These wrenches are great for all kinds of stuff, and you can of course make quick use of them during an unexpected flat tire change on the TT or TV! They also are great for busting loose rusted hardware.
I paid $69 for mine, with a $20 mail in rebate during a promotion. This Great tool goes on all our trips!
RE: Charging System Troubleshoot
Actually, it takes closer to 13.7 volts to charge a 12 volt battery properly...most automotive regulated alternator systems run a minmum of 14.2 volts at the truck's battery terminals.
You mentioned you had 13.5 volts at a battery separator in the camper. Is that separator one of those solid state types with an alum finned housing, and three terminals? If so, those devices have a voltage drop across them, which will of course diminish your charging voltage from the truck below that 13.5 volt level.
If you also have one of these same kind of battery separators in your truck to 'feed' the camper charging wire, it's an additional problem. I believe a constant use solenoid in the truck is the only way to go...it will feed the regulated alternator voltage to the camper feed wire.
Also, some camper wiring installers don't use a proper sized wire in the circuit for the camper feed wire. Also, if you are using the truck's factory wiring to the 7-way plug clear in the back of the vehicle - what size wire is in that harness...it should have a minimum of #10 wire...larger is better, and I would use at least a #8 wire to feed the camper charge circuit from the truck. That is a long run to the back of the truck, then back forward to the camper - if that's what you are using.
Ideally, a plug mounted forward in the truck bed, and then to the camper is better - a shorter run, and then less resistance and voltage drop.
As mentioned above, get a cheap digital volt meter and trace the voltage from the trucks battery (with the engine running) back to the fuse panel, checking all the connections along the way to see where the voltage drops come into play.
Good luck...
RE: Battery charger used on Jayco
All the Jayco's I looked at on a nearby dealer's lot last week had converter/chargers in them that had large stickers on the front, advertising the fact that they now had 'Three Stage Chargers'...which gives you 1. bulk battery charging 2. finishing charge 3. float charge to keep batteries fully charged at proper voltage without overcharging, as in the past.
Check out Best Converter for converter/charger update kits if you have an older, single stage charger. I found a 55 Amp model for my Lance and expect to extend the life of our batteries without worry of water loss and overcharging.
RE: What movies are on your "must have" for camping?
Years ago, before DVD's, when we were camping with our kids, we used to play the soundtrack from 'Paint your Wagon'...kinda 'Corny', I know, but it became a family ritual thing, usually on our first night out. Now we've got it in our DVD collection, it's a boondocking favorite!
We like to show older John Wayne westerns. If we are group camping with family and friends, we like to have 'theme' nights; action, drama, classics, westerns, war movies, etc.
We tend to take some of the older movies with us, as we all see the modern stuff at home.
RE: Battery (dual or single)
If you have room for two batteries...install two. If you ever camp off the grid where it's cool, you'll need those two batteries to keep the heater's motor running all night!
With 12 volt Deep Cycle batteries, you will be hooking them up in PARALLEL - Pos to POS, and Neg to Neg. You will then keep the voltage at 12 volts, and have twice the available Amp Hours of a single battery.
If you do a lot of boondocking, and your battery area allows for taller batteries...you might be able to install two of the 6 Volt Deep Cycle, Golf Car type for additional Amp Hours. In this case, you would hook the 6 Volt batteries in SERIES, which gives you twice the voltage (12 Volts), but the Amp Hour rating remains the same as a single battery.
I don't think you can ever have enough batteries...as long as you have a way to recharge them in a timely manner so they give you years of service.
RE: Garmin GPS reception with camper
I've got your same setup...F350 with Lance and use a Garmin street pilot...I got their remote magnetic mount external antenna. I stuck it on the forward part of the hood. Works just great. The GPS worked part of the time without the external antenna, but it works a lot better with it.
I've just recently replaced the streetpilot with a Nuvi 650 that I got from Costco online for a discounted price. The Nuvi had the high sensitivity receiver, and may not need the external antenna, but it has a socket for it and I entend to use that way...it gets a much 'clearer' shot of the sky being mounted up front away from the camper's overhange.
RE: Batteries...Made in China
In my experience with corrosion, I've found that it usually occurs due to the dissimilar metals in contact with one another, and some kind of an agent to help the chemical reaction along...
The battery terminals are LEAD, with sometimes STAINLESS STEEL studs...then you have either LEAD cable ends with CAD PLATED, STEEL BOLTS AND NUTS...or you have plain or plated COPPER cable eye ends...maybe a STEEL washer or lock washer thrown in the mix.
Then in a flooded cell battery, you have gasses emitted during the charge cycle, with maybe some fine vapors of the sulfuric acid to react with the various dissimilar metals noted above, to react with the oxygen in the air, and, viola...oxyidation...corrosion!
With sealed type batteries, normally you won't have any vapors emitted from the battery...unless you overcharge it, in which case the built in pressure limiting valves allow the pressure inside to escape...which could react, over time with the metals in the cable connections...not normally the case, however with a good charger...except with maybe an older, single stage converter/charger unit that doesn't shut down the charge cycle properly, especially if you have installed AGM type sealed batteries - if you have these batteries, get a converter/charger that's compatible with sealed batteries.
What can happen, however, is that the dissimilar metals in the connections react with the surrounding atmosphire...IE, if you are parked in a coastal area with lots of sea air to react with the connections you will get corrosion over time...it happened to me with a battery bank in a cabin next to the ocean in Mexico...the salty air got to some of my connections during a year's absence, where I didn't have enough protective coating on the terminals.
The answer is to keep those connections clean and coated with something to keep the oxygen away...there are commercial products out there to help, generally, the ones that are thicker and don't flow away from the connections are best. Don't forget to coat underneath the connections as well - that's where the corrosion seems to begin. I like to coat the cable connections underneath before attaching to the battery terminals helps the most...then coat generously on the top after the connection has been secured.
Also, it's a good idea to flush the tops of your batteries with clean water once in a while to keep the accumulated dirt and grime washed away. A dirty battery top can actuality create a small electrical path between the terminals in the presence of moisture in the air, allowing for faster self-discharge during storage, etc.
Hope that helps...enjoy!
RE: Batteries...Made in China
Check the specs of the batteries you may wish to buy for your TC...
Optima Gp 24 size are only 55 Amp Hour rated
Optima Gp 31 size rated @ 75 Amp Hrs
Lifeline AGM Gp 24 rated @ 80 Amp Hrs
Lifeline AGM Gp 27 rated @ 100 Amp Hrs
Lifeline AGM Gp 31 rated @ 105 Amp Hrs
Typical 'Flooded Cell' types:
Gp 24 rated @ 90 Amp Hrs
Gp 29 rated @ 105 Amp Hrs
Gp 31 rated @ 135 Amp Hrs
Lifeline 6 volt 'golf car' types are rated @ 220 Amp Hrs.
Flooded cell 6 volts are rated @225 Amp Hrs.
NOTE: 6 volts are used in pairs, wired in SERIES (Pos to Neg), and then double the voltage to 12 volts - but the Amp Hr rating remains the same.
If you wire two 12 volt batteries in PARALLEL (Pos to Pos; Neg to Neg), the voltage remains at 12 volts, BUT the Amp Hr rating will DOUBLE.
I would never recommend the Optima's for RV use...they just don't have enough plate area inside to provide higher Amp Hr ratings to run all your stuff! If you've got lots of 'bucks', get the Lifeline AGMs, or stick with flooded cell batteries for more Amp Hrs for your money - and check the water a few times a year.
Put some heavy grease on the terminals to keep the corrosion at bay.
RE: What type of Deep Cycle Batteries should I buy?
If I may provide some corrected information about a couple of Trojan batteries mentioned above....
The group 31 deep cycle Trojan is rated at 130 Amp Hours, not 225...225 is the number of minutes this battery will operate a 25 amp load till the battery drops to 10.5 volts. Advertising can be deceiving...you have to read the spec's...Trojan uses the '225' in their Part Number, but it's not the Amp Hour Spec!
Amp Hours are the 'gallons' in your electronic 'fuel tank' (battery) and is an indication of it's true capacity.
The Minutes rating at 25 amps can be used to compare battery types, etc., but is not really usable to estimate how long it will run your stuff.
The other Trojan mentioned was a Group 27 deep cycle...this battery is rated at 115 Amp Hours....the '200' is the Min's @ 25 amp load rating. Again, check the specs carefully.
'Cold Cranking Amp' ratings, 'Cranking Amp' ratings, and 'Marine (or RV) Cranking Amp' ratings are another way to express a battery's capacity to provide energy for STARTING batteries...NOT Deep Cycle types to run the RV's lights, etc.
These ratings were devised by the AD people to make their stuff look better than the other guys...
CCA are the available Amps @ 0 degrees f.
CA are the available Amps @ 32 degrees f.
MCA are the available Amps @ 32 degrees f.
A battery will perform better as the temp is elevated in tempature...so the CA and MCA ratings will be higher by about 15% above the CCA ratings...so if a company lists it's rating as 'Cranking Amps'...it looks kinda like 'Cold Cranking Amps' but will have a higher number due to it's being tested at the higher temp!
These ratings were intended to allow users to compare various batteries for their performance...but the AD people got involved to cloud up the issues, unless you know the meanings of the ratings.
For STARTING, look at the CCA (or CA) ratings...the higher the better to crank the engine's starter.
For INSIDE the RV, look at the Amp Hour ratings...the higher the better.
Hope that's useful...sorry to be so long winded...I too type more when I'm warmed up...:D
RE: What type of Deep Cycle Batteries should I buy?
First, as noted above, that 15 watt solar panel won't really help you much while using your TC...that's only about 1 amp into your batteries per HOUR, and probably only about 7-9 amps for a whole single day....that solar panel will be OK for keeping your batteries 'topped off' while the TC is in storage,however.
GP 31, deep cycle batteries are rated at about 140 Amp Hrs, so if you can fit them in your budget, they will give you the longest running time for your 12 volt stuff. They aren't cheap, probably in the neighborhood of $125 each.
Don't get Optima's...the standard version is only rated at 55 Amp hours for about $150 each! Their 31 version has more Amp Hours, but the price gets up over $200 each, the last time I checked.
AGM sealed types are good, as you don't have any routine maintenance to worry about...but they are really pricy...probably over $200 each, these days. The available Amp Hour ratings are usually about 10% less that 'flooded cell' type batteries, due to the immobile nature of the acid against the plates.
All battery prices have risen greatly in the last year due to the price of the lead. Also with fuel costs rising so high, it just plain costs more to truck those heavy batteries around, adding more to the costs...I don't think you will find any $60 6 volts batteries are the box stores these days...more like closer to $90 or more!
As far as 'Brands' go, you'll probably be OK with just about any HEAVY weight, Deep Cycle batteries you can find, box store or not...I've never had much good luck with the Exide brand, and won't use their stuff.
My suggestion is to look for 'Batteries' in your local yellow page directory to see if you have any Battery Specialists in your area...give them a call, they are the experts, and will usually give you the straight info, make suggestions, and advise of any options for your particular use...you will get to talk to someone in the business, and not just some 'associate' that spends his days filling shelves in a big box store!
RE: Truck camper on 4" lift
JohnAM
You are right, the alum wheels are the weakest link. They are rotary cast alum, 18x9.5. I don't remember the exact wt rating, but it's less than the tires, and right at the limit of the wt. of our rig. That's one of the things on any trip's check list...check the wheels for lug torque, cracks, etc, and tire pressure, of course.
The F350 is a Camper Special which has the rear sway bar as original equipment. I've added Rancho 9000 adjustable shocks all around.
I put air bags on when we first got the camper...we took a long road trip, and blew out one of the bags early into the trip. Road debris, I guess, never did find out what happened...it was a small hole, and didn't notice till the next morning, when we had the lean to one side. Had a hard time finding one bag...finally talked a dealer into selling one out of a kit and replacing later.
When we got back from our 6 week road trip, I got a set of SuperSprings and took off the air bags. I could adjust the SS to level out the load, and I'm happy with them, even though they squeak a bit. If I had it to do over again, I think I'd go to my local spring shop and get the stock springs reworked by adding a full length leaf or two for the weight of the camper, and getting rid of those short stock overload leaves. I don't use the truck without the camper.
The truck had the 4 inch lift when I got it used a couple of years ago. With the addition if the wide, 18inch tires, the 'sway' factor has been much improved!
I've also changed the diff gears to 4.56 ratio, with a Detroit TruTrack LS in the rear. We like to do some beach running when we get the chance. Up front I installed Dynatrac taper bearing hubs and Warn hubs to get rid of the stock hubs. The truck has lots of miles, so I justified the expense as an needed upgrade.
I really haven't noticed any real reduction in MPG with the new gears...the old ones were 3.73s. With the Gas V8, the new gears have given the rig some new found pulling power!
We found the Used Lance on a friend's dealer lot, a 2000 model that was like brand new inside! It had all the goodies, solar, but no generator. I've since added more solar panels, 1500 watt inverter, LCD TV, Stereo with XM radio, and two additional batteries in boxes inside the truck bed, just forward of the wheel wells, and the rear storage/porch that you can see in one of the pics. We use a Honda i2000 generator when there's no plugs around. Out latest upgrade is a VuQube Sat TV portable antenna that we use with our home Dish TV black box.
RE: Truck camper on 4" lift
No Problemo...Go for it!
http://img178.imageshack.us/img178/1379/mokecampergv9.jpg
http://img525.imageshack.us/img525/8357/beachtruckmediumno4.jpg
http://img178.imageshack.us/img178/8922/beachcamperyv3.jpg
http://img440.imageshack.us/img440/262/fordcamperlargeqv3.jpg
http://img440.imageshack.us/img440/7282/ntireftsidelargeqe1.jpg
RE: Real world loading of 99 Ford F350 Supercrew.
We have a 99 F-350 5.4L SuperCab, long-bed,SRW 4x4...and a Lance 1010 Camper.
I weighed the whole rig, ready to go with full water and fuel:
Front Axle : 4380
Rear Axle: 6460
Total........10840
GVWR for our Ford is: 9700...so we are 'over' the official rating, however, we are below both axle's weight rating...so away we go!
The truck has a 4 inch lift, and had 16 inch rims when we bought it a couple of years ago. Not many options for tires to take that weight safely in a 16 inch size...
I went to 18 x 9.5 inch alloy rims with LT325/65R18 Pro Comp XAT's which are rated at 3840 lbs per tire or 7680 per axle...so I'm good now, and have a huge 'footprint' with these tires for some beach running when I get the chance! The ride is a whole lot better with these tires, too. We have a rear sway bar, Ranchos, and SuperSpring leaves to cut down the sway on the corners...works great!
We've also changed diff gears to 4.56 ratio's with a Limited Slip in the rear to try to keep the old 5.4L V8 in good shape to move us along. To date these gears are working great...we still have to slow down in the really steep hills, but the old V8 just loafs along! Our mileage is about 9.5 with the old 3.73 gears and the new ones haven't changed much...we're not speeders, and usually cruise at about 60 mph or less...like to see the scenery!
Good luck...
RE: Need suggestions for Model of 'higher end' TT's...
Thanks for all the suggestions....
Yes, We've looked at Airstreams, and forgot to mention in original post...They are 'tight' TT's indeed...but we'd like the extra room of some sliders...unfortunately, the two models with sliders only slide the folding couch.
Airstreams are quality rigs, but I think they are a bit overpriced in view of the space given in today's market...I think they are still trying to sell their 'name'. Their competition seem to offer lots more features for the money, or cheaper.
RE: Travel Books
Great Idea about scanning doc's and storing them on your PC's hard drive.
There's a neat small scanner called the 'neat scanner' that would probably fill the bill and offers the ability to track expenses, etc., along with document copies you wish to keep...Don't have one, but have been looking to get one...
Neat Scanner
As for keeping books...Sony sells an electronic book reader that stores complete books that are purchased from ebook. It's very user friendly for reading you're favorite books. You download to your PC from ebook, then load into the reader. You can also load music and pic's too...you can listen to music as you read if you wish.
I have one of these, and really like it's portability and ease of use...only problem is that you can't share your books with other readers as you do when you trade paperbacks with friends.
Sone Book Reader
Need suggestions for Model of 'higher end' TT's...
...We're looking into full timing in a TT, but want a Model with higher end cabinets, fixtures, etc.
There are lots and lots of cheaper, lighter TT's out there...we want something more substantial with better fabrics, solid cabinets, etc. to hold up for the long haul of full time living.
We don't want a 5er, where there are plenty of heavier, high end units...we want the convenience of a TT so we can pull it with our Excursion.
We like the Models with the windows in the rear, and bedroom forward...so far the only one that gets close is a Monaco/Holiday Rambler/Presidential Suite. Looks like they are well built...a bit longer than we'd really like, buy there are compromises everywhere...
Any suggestions for other brands/models similar the the HR mentioned?
Thanks for the help...looks like we're going to have to give up our Lance TC rig...
RE: Adding an XM antenna solution needed.
Kapitman...that's the exact same set-up I installed. We also hardly play any CD's either...we do like Jimmy Buffett, and I've converted most of his tunes to mp3 format and put one one CD!
We do haul around some DVD movies, though. I've put our DVD disc's in holders to cut down on the bulk. I use a program called 'Film Tracker' to catalog them and print out a list.
We've got a friend that has a portable digital DVD projector he hauls along when we go camping together...we hang up a white canvas, and have our own 'drive in' movies for our families!
RE: Generac Prime Impact LP 3400 battery charging
As mentioned above, most RV generators I've dealt with do not have a separate winding in them to charge-back directly into the 'starting' battery through the cable that runs from the starter to the battery.
It is assumed that an RV generator's AC output is directed to the RV's 'shore' power circuit which in turn powers the converter/charger, which in turn recharges the battery that started the generator...now that was a long chain of events!
Many Marine generators are different, in that they have separate batteries to only start the generator. In this case, the AC output powers other circuits, while a separate winding on the generator's stator/armature OR a separate alternator on the generator recharges the starting battery directly back through the starting cables. These added batteries, and charging systems add costs that aren't needed in most RV's.
